what can i use to patch walls?

[Judd]

Edited

[dealmaker]

I'm not sure how large an area you're talking about, but what I always do on areas up to about 6" X 6" is cut out the sheetrock, and then glue a couple of (paint stirring sticks work best) thin wooden strips across the opening either vertically or horizontally. Elmers glue works great for this, apply to the sticks, spread thinly, let it set for a couple of minutes and then apply on the inside. Use a clean finger to apply pressure for a minute or so until they will hold themselves in place.

While the glue is drying, go ahead and cut a piece of sheetrock to fit into the hole, use a rasp or razor to cut into a tight fit. Before you fit the new piece in strip the paper facing off all around the perimeter of both the wall, and the new piece, this is to allow the paper tape to be applied. Then apply glue to the sticks to adhere the new piece to them, again, hold the piece in place for a minute or two until the glue can hold.

After the glue has cured use your joint compound and apply the tape for the first coat. After it's dried sand lightly (if done right you shouldn't have to sand though) apply another coat of mud. Let the second coat dry and then apply the third coat, which you will try mightily to match the texture with.

In my experience the ONLY way to properly repair sheetrock is with THREE COATS of joint compound. Anything less it leaves a visible mark. That's why I always charged my moving out tenants $50.00 per doorknob hole in the sheetrock, extra trips back to do the subsequent steps.

If the hole is larger than about 6" wide it may leave a "bow" because of the 16" spacing between studs. In that case I would cut all the way across and nail in horizontal supports (2" X 2" usually) in order to nail the horizontal edge of both the new piece and the sheetrock that's still attached to the stud.

After that finish as above.

Just my $.02

dealmaker

[Judd]

Edited

[brianb_cobbres]

Regular drywall mud will work fine.

[dealmaker]

OK, now I see.

I'd probably tape the edges (can't hurt) and then apply the mud in a couple of coats, it doesn't sound like it's going to take too many "hits".

dealmaker

[Judd]

Edited

[brianb_cobbres]

I was referring to pre-mixed joint compound or drywall compound. You can get a quart for a couple bucks. They do not recommend using spackling because it can crack and shrink if you are not careful.

One piece of advise. Use some sort of sanding block rather than just a piece of sandpaper. Even sandpaper wrapped around a piece of 2x4 will give you much better results than just the paper. The pressure for your fingers will create grooves and make it almost impossible to get a smooth surface where as the block spreads the pressure over the entire block. Physics and such.

[Debbie]

One piece of advise. Use some sort of sanding block rather than just a piece of sandpaper. Even sandpaper wrapped around a piece of 2x4 will give you much better results than just the paper. The pressure for your fingers will create grooves and make it almost impossible to get a smooth surface where as the block spreads the pressure over the entire block. Physics and such.

Gosh! You sound like Jeff!

[Aldo]

Pre-mixed joint compound is the only thing I use. As above, spaclkle can be tempermental and I don't have time to play with it. I'd add that, for about the same money, you can get 'light' joint compound. The 'light' refers to the weight of the product. It works equally as well as the standard mud and weighs at least 30% less.

Brian is 200% right about using a sanding block. A block will give a more even appearance. The tiniest bit of 'touch-up' sanding with a piece of sandpaper is almost guaranteed to say Hello after you apply paint. Sanding blocks made specifically for drywall repair are inexpensively available at most home improvement outlets. They are usually gray in color, about 2" by 3" and one inch thick.

Dealmaker is right about applying three (or more, as needed) coats of mud, though I may do it differently than others. The first coat is always the thickest, so allow plenty of time to dry. Then sand the high spots (with a block) and apply the second coat, attempting to make it as smooth as possible by using a 12" blade. When that's dry, apply a coat of paint to the repair plus 12" in each direction. This will give you a true picture of what your wall will look like when done. Then you can apply mud (same 12" blade) to any imperfections which are now easily visible. After sanding those repairs, repaint and recheck for imperfections. Re-mud and repaint, if necessary, until the repair meets your requirements.

My rationale? Often, when making wall repairs, I find myself dealing with multiple coats of old paint (always different colors) and/or surface types. That combination usually makes it difficult to find imperfections. Applying paint after the second sanding gives a true picture of what more needs to be done.

[Inspector]

Anytime I have done sheetrock repair, it almost always takes 3 coats. Rarely can I get it done in two. With a 12x12 section though, it would take about three coats. Get yourself a straightedge that is about 16" long at least. Like a ruler, or a level. Something like that. Apply the mud, then screet it just like they do with concrete on a road. That should keep it pretty level with the outside edge. By about the third coat, you should be nice and level. I would give each coat 24 hours to dry before trying to sand it at least. Good luck.

Lee Warren