Door Frame

[Teen2233]

Hey guys, I need some help with my door frame.

Somone set the lock on the door(so the metal piece is extended) but the door was not shut.

I then assume someone tried to slam it shut because the wood where the lock would go is broken.

So now, not only won't the door lock but it wont stay shut(nothing to hold the metal piece in place hence it just swings around) so how do I fix this?

Can I simply replace the section of wood which is broken(the little inset area on the frame where the metal "bar" enters to shut the door or do I need to replace the entire frame?

Please let me know if I can clear things up(who would have thought I know so little about something as common as a door)

[Aldo]

I hope that I understood your description correctly. The way I read it, the door jamb was broken. If that's the case, it was not broken as you assumed. Rather, the door was 'kicked in' from the outside. Slamming a door with the lock in the locked position can't possibly break the door jam. The door would break first.

If you're handy, this isn't a difficult repair. I just did one a few days ago in less than 1/2 hour. Here's what to do:
1) Remove the stop and measure the length of the damaged area.
2) Cut a 3/4" thick board 2-1/2" wide and 24 inches longer than the damaged area. This will be the replacement for the damaged area.
3) Cut out the damaged area of the jamb to exactly the size of the board you prepared in step 2, using the board as a template centered on the damaged area. The length (height) must be more precise than simply precise. The width is not critical because any slight difference will be hidden when you replace the stop.
4) Insert the newly cut board into the void created by removing the damaged area. If cut properly, you'll have to tap it into place with a hammer. If it's a good fit, nail it into place. If not, restart at step 2.
5) Paint or finish your new jamb section to match the rest of the jamb.
6) Drill the hole for the lock (and knobset, if necessary) and re-install the striker plates.
7) Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

Here's a super tip for anyone doing this or anyone doing a new lock or knobset installation. Properly placing the latch hole is tricky, at best. You can make it an absolute no-brainer by applying paint to the outer surface of the latch. Retract the latch, close the door, release/open the latch, and open the door. This will leave a paint mark on the jamb which is precisely where you need to drill the hole.



(Note: If this is a newer or a higher end property, the entire jamb should be replaced.)

[Debbie]

Wow! That's a cool tip. Gotta te;; Jeff!

[Jim Johnson]

Hey guys, I need some help with my door frame.

Somone set the lock on the door(so the metal piece is extended) but the door was not shut.

I then assume someone tried to slam it shut because the wood where the lock would go is broken.

So now, not only won't the door lock but it wont stay shut(nothing to hold the metal piece in place hence it just swings around) so how do I fix this?

Can I simply replace the section of wood which is broken(the little inset area on the frame where the metal "bar" enters to shut the door or do I need to replace the entire frame?

Please let me know if I can clear things up(who would have thought I know so little about something as common as a door)

Wow... I just read Aldos post and feel pretty darn cheap about now...
never the less... I get broken doors and jambs on a pretty regular clip on my rentals...

(sidebar) What is it with people slamming doors? It is just a door... are you really more of a man if you can do damage to a hollow core door and the wood frame...

Around my parts you can find these large U shaped metal slip covers for both doors and walls. for the door you remove the hardware, slip on the metal and then re attach the door handle. I tend to put some "liquid nails' between the door and metal for added strength. Same sort of thing for the jamb but you must remove the trim first. The metal is as wide as the door or walls, and then about 6-8 inches tall and 4-6 inches wide. It comes in brass and silver. When using it on the walls you will have to knock the trim 1/8" for the height of the metal cover. Once installed they are pretty hard to hurt.

Aldos fix would look better, mine is a bit... industrial. But with a circular saw, screwdriver, chisel and some glue... my fix is really quick.

[Aldo]

Jim, no need to feel cheap. You offered an excellent solution to doors being damaged at or near the lock and/or knobset and I often use 'door reinforcers' for that very purpose. That's totally different than the jamb being damaged which certainly adds value to your tip. Locally, 'door reinforcers' cost about $9 for for a lock or knobset and about $16 for a larger one that works for both. Installing them is about as easy as frying an egg. Well, okay...........two eggs.

[dealmaker]

Hmmmm, tenants and doors, what the hey! I've done both of the above good advice guys. One other thing that got to be annoying to me was tenants slamming doors "back" against the wall; breaking the doorstop and making holes in sheetrock.

Here's how I eliminated that; on my MOVE IN INSPECTION sheet (you do have one of those, right!) I put three extra items on each room: (1) Doorstop in place, (2) Sheetrock at "knob heighth" in good repair, and (3) Replacing broken/missing doorstops is a $5 charge, repairing damaged sheetrock is a $75charge.

Before I did this I charged $50-$75 to repair and had a couple of tenants say there were not going to sign off on the "move out inspection" and "take me to court". My reply was always the same; "it takes FOUR TRIPS to this house to fix that, let's ask the judge what he thinks my time or my handyman's time is worth"

After I put the inspection and the repair amount on the move in sheet the problem went away.

dealmaker

[Teen2233]

I hope that I understood your description correctly. The way I read it, the door jamb was broken. If that's the case, it was not broken as you assumed. Rather, the door was 'kicked in' from the outside. Slamming a door with the lock in the locked position can't possibly break the door jam. The door would break first.

Not sure how it happened, just know that the jamb is only broken around the hole( hope that isn't too tecnical:)) where the lock would go.

I assumed since the door is steel that the jamb would break first, but maybe not.( Or I might be right since I never said it was a steel door)


If you're handy, this isn't a difficult repair. I just did one a few days ago in less than 1/2 hour. Here's what to do:
1) Remove the stop and measure the length of the damaged area.
2) Cut a 3/4" thick board 2-1/2" wide and 24 inches longer than the damaged area. This will be the replacement for the damaged area.
3) Cut out the damaged area of the jamb to exactly the size of the board you prepared in step 2, using the board as a template centered on the damaged area. The length (height) must be more precise than simply precise. The width is not critical because any slight difference will be hidden when you replace the stop.
4) Insert the newly cut board into the void created by removing the damaged area. If cut properly, you'll have to tap it into place with a hammer. If it's a good fit, nail it into place. If not, restart at step 2.
5) Paint or finish your new jamb section to match the rest of the jamb.
6) Drill the hole for the lock (and knobset, if necessary) and re-install the striker plates.
7) Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

Here's a super tip for anyone doing this or anyone doing a new lock or knobset installation. Properly placing the latch hole is tricky, at best. You can make it an absolute no-brainer by applying paint to the outer surface of the latch. Retract the latch, close the door, release/open the latch, and open the door. This will leave a paint mark on the jamb which is precisely where you need to drill the hole.


Only question is step 2, what type of board should I use and do you really mean 24 inches longer than damaged area(since the damaged area is only like 6 inches long)

Thanks for the help

[Aldo]

The visibly damaged area may be about six inches, however the surrounding wood has been weakened and possible cracked. If we were talking about a baseboard or window casing, I'd say to replace about eight or ten inches. Instead, we're talking about the entry to someone's home which certainly merits some extra effort.

A thirty-inch piece of a readily available 1x3 pine board would fit your need perfectly. Note that a 1x3 board is actually 2-1/2" by 3/4". You may have a piece of wood that is 3/4" thick and, if wider, you can cut it to the 2-1/2" width. If your cut isn't perfectly straight, it's not a problem because the unevenly cut side can be concealed by the door stop.